Western Trikala: The heart of Greece

 This densely forested district in the central Pindos mountain range retains its pristine beauty

By Haris Argyropoulos

The Pindos mountain range forms the geomorphological backbone of the Greek mainland. It extends from Nafpaktia, on the northern side of the Gulf of Corinth, to beyond the country’s northern border.

The source of most of the country’s major rivers and its main water supplier, most of the Pindos range is covered in varied dense forest, amid open plateaus and prairies. It is also dotted with villages that are often not easily accessible and which have traditionally depended on animal rearing and have little tourism infrastructure – which adds to their charm.

The region is so large that even its central part needs more than a few days’ holiday to be fully appreciated, so one has to be selective. Right in the middle of the country, west of the city of Trikala, one can take a circular, anticlockwise route that includes some stunningly beautiful spots (altitudes and distance from Trikala are provided in brackets).

Kalambaka (240 m, 24 km) lies in the shadow of the amazing rock formations of Meteora, where it is worth visiting the six medieval monasteries that are still in operation. From here, take the ascending road to Grevena and Metsovo, and a short distance after Grevena, turn left. The road will bring you to Kastania (850 m, 58 km), in a wonderfully lush setting, where you can see the 16th-century Aghios Nikolaos Siamadon Monastery. Amarantos (900 m, 60 km), is nestled in a fir forest. Make some time to visit the old water mill, a listed building.

Exit the main road at the Polythea crossroads and turn right toward Anthousa (1,100 m, 97 km): Secluded in the forest, this village, like neighboring Haliki, is inhabited by stock farmers who descend with their flocks to the Thessaly Plain in winter. Lepenitsa, as Anthousa used to be known, which flourished during the late Ottoman period thanks to its animal farming and goldsmithing industry, prides itself on having produced several heroes in the 1821-29 Greek War of Independence, as well as a few monasteries and churches of that period. It also features impressive 19th-century stone-built houses. In the Panaghia Monastery area, on the way to Haliki, there is a large arched stone bridge worth admiring. Also, few, if any, other villages can boast so many stone water fountains as Anthousa.

Haliki (1,150 m, 97 km) is the nearest village to the source of the Acheloos River. Its approximately 700 inhabitants in summer dwindle to just two in winter – the tavern keeper / journalist and his mother, both excellent cooks. Back at the Polythea junction, turn south and head for Mesohora (800 m, 73 km), which is likely to be submerged under an artificial lake soon.

Pyrra (1,050 m, 63 km), is reached via the valley of the Kamnaitikos River, an Acheloos tributary. This is another attractive stock farming village, only recently discovered by tourism. The area has many caves, one with an subterranean waterfall. Neraidohori (1,140 m, 56 km) is a similarly up-and-coming destination.

Pertouli (1,150 m, 52 km) lies on a beautiful plateau and has developed significant infrastructure, including a small ski center. Elati (900 m, 36 km) is the busiest tourist spot in the district after Kalambaka but has retained its idyllic winter image.

The last stop before returning to Trikala, Pyli (22 km, Greek for “gate”), on the plain, where the Portaikos River separates the steep slopes of Itamos and Koziakas mountains, forming a naturally imposing gate.

Koziakas, part of the European Natura 2000 network of natural habitats, has steep precipices and gorges forested with fir, beech and oak trees. Near Pyli is the beautiful arched bridge of Portiatis, built in 1514.

Transport & basic info

Trikala (328 kilometers from Athens) can be reached by car, bus or train. The journey by car (via the E75 highway) takes under four hours. From Thessaloniki, the distance is 214 km and takes about three hours. There are nine intercity bus connections from Athens (tel 210.831.1434) and six from Thessaloniki (tel 2310.517.517). Τhe train journey from Athens takes between four and five hours, going as far as Kalambaka. Hellenic Railways: tel 210.529.7777, www.ose.gr; police: tel 24310.27401/303; hospital: tel 24310.23652; Κalambaka tourist police: tel 24320.76100.

Where to stay

Area phone code: 24340. In Pertouli: Pertouli (tel 6934.469.469), Papagianni (tel 91177), Astrovolia (tel 24320.41434); in Kalambaka: Divani Meteora (tel 24320.23330), classic deluxe hotel with spa; in Elati: Μikri Arktos (tel 71777, small hospitable guesthouse), Ligeri guesthouse/ apartments (tel 71454); in Neraidohori: Dristela Resort (tel 91350, de luxe, fine views), Agnanti, small, ambient guesthouse (tel 91022); in Pyrra: Archontiko Efharis (tel 91110, homely atmosphere), Hotel Vigla (tel 91400); in Kastania: Manakos (tel 24320.61070), rooms and studios.

Where to eat

In Elati, you will find good appetizers at Xenophon’s, grilled meats at Tilemachos and good classic Greek dishes at Panselinos; Likno, a small shop, sells homemade jams and preserves. In Pertouli, Panayiotis has excellent Greek cuisine with local specialities and a huge wine list. In Haliki, La Verliga (tel 24320.87274) offers excellent local cuisine by the mother-and-son team. You will find good chestnuts and walnuts throughout the area and good sausages at Papaharalambous in Trikala (75 Asclepiou). In Kalambaka, try the Panellinion taverna.

What to see

Pertouli ski center (tel 24340.91382/ 293), at 1,900 meters, 40 kilometers from Trikala, has three trails and three lifts. It is open between December and March. Pertouli also offers facilities for archery and horseback riding. From Elati, ascend to the Arkoudotrypa summit, at 1,600 meters and visit the namesake cave. Ten minutes from the center of Elati is Red Rock, 60 meters high with six climbing runs at different levels of difficulty. Just outside Pyli, at an altitude of 800 meters, the impressive three-story Monastery of Aghios Vissarion has a library with rare manuscripts.